Our shopping carts are full. My friends and I have walked down every aisle of the Goodwill Bins multiple times, and now it’s time for the most dreaded part: choosing which items to bring home, and which to put back. One friend almost tears up as she ditches a pair of on-brand Nike shorts. “I have these already,” she says. The massive “put back” pile grows as we sift through our cart.
One item is left to be sorted: a truly one-of-a-kind amethyst purple Patagonia down jacket, perfect for the approaching Minnesota winter months. A silent conversation hovers between us all.
We like to think that we thrift ethically. What does that mean?
Well, if we already own a similar item, we leave it for someone else to buy. We don’t buy baby clothes for our future children like we’ve seen TikTok influencers do; we stay away from the shoe section; and as the Minnesota winter gets set to dump a series of snowstorms on us all, we leave the winter jackets for those who need them.
Thrift stores are ethical because, at their core, they promote sustainability. They work as an alternative to fast fashion, like Shein, and encourage customers to reuse and recycle clothing items. Goodwill is committed to sustainable practices: they reduce packaging waste, implement clean technology and encourage reusable bags.
However, certain thrift stores like Goodwill have faced controversy in recent years due to allegations of safety issues, underpaying disabled employees, racism and worker theft.
As thrifting has gained popularity, new consequences have surfaced. When the demand for items increases, so does the price – leaving out those who rely on its resources. Those who can afford it may buy more than they need, leading to overconsumption, which then defeats the purpose of the thrift stores in the first place. Further, fewer items would then be available to the people who need them.
Some people take it a step further and resell items bought at a lower price. They categorize them as “vintage” and exponentially increase the price to the point that they are no longer affordable to most people. This is unethical and directly undermines the mission of stores like Goodwill.
As winter approaches, our choices are incredibly important. Instead of trendy fashion choices, some Goodwill customers may be questioning their safety. Homelessness and poverty are profoundly connected with accessible clothing and other resources.
Surveyed in 2023, “nearly one-quarter (22%, Twin Cities metro) of the homeless population has spent at least half of the previous month unsheltered (outside, in encampments, etc.),” according to the Minnesota Homeless Study by Wilder Research.
In Minnesota, this can be deadly. In 2019, there were 62 cold-related deaths, according to the Minnesota Department of Health. Access to a warm winter jacket or gloves is vital.
Thrift stores are supposed to help those in need, not cater to trends that harm marginalized communities. So, how can we thrift ethically?
The solution is not that thrifting is only for certain people, or you shouldn’t thrift. In fact, the opposite is true. Contributing to circular economies has many benefits for the community. Shopping at thrift stores helps people find jobs, reduces waste and promotes conscious consumerism.
Many thrift stores are donation-based. We might offset that purple Patagonia purchase by donating that old jacket in the back of our closets we grew out of years ago.
This season, it’s important to consider what we can give others, not what we can take. We should prioritize the needs of our community. Your jacket will be much warmer knowing that your contribution has served the greater good.
Sabrina Thompson can be reached at thom4836@stthomas.edu.